Oak Tree House on Fewkes Canyon Trail

One of the most eye catching of the several Ancestral Pueblo ruins sites visible from Sun Point is the Oak Tree House. During the summer of 2011, Mesa Verde National Park is offering ranger guided hikes to Oak Tree House and further on to New Fire House and the Fire Temple.

Oak Tree House has about 50 rooms and 6 kivas. The interpretive sign at the Sun Point overlook says that the sloping alcove floor was leveled using retaining walls and fill, and that every available square foot of area was used, including the ledge area above.

The one mile round trip trail begins at the Sun Temple on the Mesa Top Loop. The hike gets off to a fast start with hikers clinging to an installed rope and stepping carefully into carved footholds and descending a ladder to a ledge area. The ledge trail winds around the point under the Sun Temple and Mummy House.
 

Along the way there are views from below toward Mummy House and across Cliff Canyon toward Cliff Palace and Sunset House. Near the tip of the point there is a small seep spring that one of the water sources for this relatively highly populated canyon area.

The trail to Oak Tree House was mostly constructed in 1915 and was improved in the 1930s but has not been used much since then. There were a few hikes here in the 2006 Mesa Verde Centennial year. In the 2010-11 summer seasons some of these rarely used trails have been re-opened on a trial basis to public visits.

The kiva at the right end of the site appears to have been modified into a grain grinding room. Another Mesa Verde site where I’ve noticed an indoor grinding room is Coyote Village on the Far View Trail.
 

There is a lot of soot visible at Oak Tree House. The square opening on the upper left appears to be a well framed window. Most of the small openings that we think are windows are actually doorways, but this one appears to actually be a window.

Oak Tree House is being monitored for structural changes with small monitors that are visible. This device provides data for deciding if any action needs to be taken to stabilize the fragile walls.
 

On the left side of the site, a T shaped doorway is visible near other rectangular doorways. The building dates for Oak Tree House appear to be earlier than many of the other cliff dwelling sites. The dates here are 1184 AD to a construction stop in 1209 AD.
 

From Oak Tree House the hike continues a short distance to New Fire House and Fire Temple (see separate post for Fire Temple). After visiting there we retrace back to the trailhead. The hike is advertised as two hours but is a better experience if it lasts close to three hours.

Fire Temple on Fewkes Canyon Trail

One of the special hikes at Mesa Verde National Park in 2011 visits the Fire Temple and New Fire House in Fewkes Canyon. These side by side sites are visible from Sun Point on the Mesa Top Loop but have not been visited by the public since the 1930s.

The one mile round trip hike begins at the Sun Temple and winds around the point past Oak Tree House and below Mummy House. The hike I was on started hiking at about 8:20 AM and arrived at New Fire House at about 9:45 AM.

New Fire House is a two level structure. The lower level has seven rooms and three kivas. From the trail level, New Fire House is hard to view because the trail is a little below the floor level of the site. From the right side, there is an open area in the back of the alcove with some moisture and plants growing similar to Balcony House and Long House.

One of the possible interpretations of New Fire House is that it was the residence of the persons who were responsible for the ceremonies held at the adjacent Fire Temple. The trail stays along the front and doesn’t enter the site. There weren’t any good views into the kivas.

The upper level has 13 rooms. The overlook interpretive sign says there are foot and toe holds leading to the upper level and that ladders were probably used. There is a good view of the structure to the right of the upper level from below.

The main section of the Fire Temple resembles the floor a great kiva with two rectangular structures and a central circular structure that we usually think is a fire pit. The rectangular structures are often described as foot drums associated with dancing. The large outdoor plaza at Long House on Wetherill Mesa has similar features.

The great kivas at Chaco Canyon have these features as does the great kiva at Aztec Ruins. Early investigator J.W. Fewkes thought that the central fire pit may have been an “eternal flame” due to the large quantity of ashes that were found here. Fewkes saw a connection between this site and current “New Fire” rites practiced by the Hopis that he had spent much time with.

There is a lot of white plaster still intact here. Our group spent some time scanning the plaster for small images. There are two vertical zig zag snake like designs in the plaster but you have to look carefully to see them.

We noticed a large alcove directly across the canyon from the Fire Temple area but couldn’t see any structures. The possible explanation for non use is that this site doesn’t catch as much winter sun, but it is known as a Basketmaker, or early era site.
 

On the left side of the Fire Temple is a room with some pictographs on the wall. The images to the right are unusual and resemble Prickly Pear Cactus with flower buds. There are also some mountain sheep images. An early picture of these images also included some Kokopelli images that are now missing.

We had a discussion of how early visitors to these sites left historic inscriptions, but many of these were later considered to be graffiti and have been removed. It was speculated that the Kokopellis might have been removed for their phallic features.
 

The total hike to Oak Tree House and the Fire Temple took 2:50 hours. The tour is advertised as a two hour hike but the more leisurely 2:50 hour pace was appreciated by our group. In 2011 this hike is being offered May 29 to September 5 on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturdays for a cost of $20.

Square Tower to Sun Point Lookout-Winter Hike

The Sun Point Trail is a segment of the Mesa Top Pit House to Pueblo tour on Chapin Mesa in Mesa Verde National Park in southwest Colorado.

On this self guiding tour most visitors move their vehicles to each of the ten stops, but during winter conditions this is a peaceful 3 mile round trip hike on a firm surface.

I started my hike at the Square Tower Overlook, a 500 foot paved trail and the second stop on the tour. This overlook views an alcove ruins site that features a four story square tower pressed against the wall of the alcove in Navajo Canyon. This site retains about 60 of an original 80 rooms. There is another ruins site directly across Navajo Canyon closer to the canyon rim.

There are three stops before arriving at Sun Point, the first of three view points across Cliff Canyon and Fewkes Canyon. This is one of the best ruins viewpoints in the region as about 12 Ancestral Pueblo Ruins sites are visible here.

The largest and most eye catching from Sun Point is Sunset House. To the left of Sunset House are two smaller sites and then Cliff Palace, the largest cliff dweller site in Mesa Verde. There is another site down canyon to the right, visible with binoculars, that isn't mentioned in the interpretive information at the overlook.

Moving to the left side of the same overlook, there are views across the canyon junction toward the large alcove Cliff Palace, the Sun Temple on the mesa top, and Mummy House below the Temple and below the canyon rim. A reliable water supply in this area made it an attractive area for these numerous cliff dwellings.

A short distance further is the Oak Tree House overlook. Oak Tree House has a retaining wall at the front of the site and the area behind the wall filled in to level the floor.

This site has 50 rooms and six circular kivas. All of these sites face the south. In late February these sites are snow free while the north facing side of the canyon still is snow covered.

Just past Oak Tree House is the Fire Temple. This site has an area to the left that is thought to have been used only for ceremonies, as it shows no features associated with habitation. To the right is a split level site cliff dwelling called New Fire House.

It took me about 1:00 hour to hike from Square Tower to the Fire Temple overlook including all the stops, and 40 minutes to return. I only saw two or three other visitors on a sunny 50 degree day in late February. From the Fire Temple it is another 0.6 miles to the Sun Temple.