Prater Canyon Winter Trail

The Prater Canyon Winter Trail is a new winter sports trail in 2012 at Mesa Verde National Park in southwest Colorado. The trail is designed as a 4.7 mile lasso loop with trailhead parking at the Montezuma Lookout Point at the 6.2 miles mark on the main park road.

During the 2012 winter season Mesa Verde has groomed the snow is several areas to promote winter sports. The park entrance fee is being waived in January and February to promote more winter visitation.

The Prater Canyon area has not been open for hiking before the 2012 winter season. The two way segment of trail descends gradually and extends for about 1.2 miles before reaching the loop segment near the tunnel. The groomed surface was covered with a couple of inches of fresh snow during my hike.

It took me about 0:35 minutes to arrive at the loop segment on snowshoes. On the late February day that I hiked, it appeared that the groomed part of the loop had been shortened, not extending as far up Prater Canyon as designed. This may have been due to the relatively modest levels of snow in 2012. I hiked two days after 3 inches of snow and there had been 6 inches the previous week. There was plenty of snow when I hiked but the base wasn’t deep.

The terrain along most of the Prater Canyon area has been burned by the Bircher Fire of July 2000. Some of the Douglas Firs survived. I didn't see many animal tracks along this trail. There were a couple of track trails that appeared to be mouse sized and another that was coyote sized.

There is a good view of this trail area from a pullover point on the main park road past the trail head. This view shows the two way segment of trail. The trail makes a turn to the right at the far end of this view.

At the parking area of the Montezuma View Point there are good views toward Sleeping Ute Mountain and west toward the Abajo Mountains. My total hike took 1:50 hours for about 3 miles on a 32 F degree morning.

Knife Edge Trail Winter Views

In the 2012 winter season, the Morefield Campground at Mesa Verde National Park in southwest Colorado, is being managed for winter hiking on snowshoes and cross country skiing. The campground is located only a few miles past the main entrance. In the summer season, there are three hiking trails that begin in the vicinity of the campground.

The campground loops and the new Meadow Bliss Trail are being machine groomed. My hike was two days after several inches of new snow in mid February. The parking area and trailhead for winter activities is the Morefield Village area near the gas station.

From the trailhead it is about 1 mile along the campground roads to the relatively level 2 mile round trip Knife Edge Trail. The Knife Edge Trail is part of the old entrance road to the park and provides good views to the north above the Montezuma Valley and the nearby mountain ranges. It took me about 0:30 minutes of snowshoe hiking to arrive at the Knife Edge Trailhead. The trail isn’t groomed.

The snow depth was moderate along the first segment of trail. Hiking past Point Lookout, the wide views open up. Most of the regional mountains are visible. To the north is the San Miguel range, featuring Lone Cone to the west and Dolores Peak to the east. At the No. 8 trail marker the snow on the trail got much deeper and I was sinking in up to my knees.

I was surprised to see some tracks coming from the other direction near trail marker 10. These deep tracks appear to have been made by a deer that was struggling as much as I was. The deer appears to have made its way by lunging along the trail and then returned the way it came.

On the recent ranger led Winter Ecology Hike in this area we didn’t see any deer tracks, and the explanation was that the deer mostly retreat to the lower snow free areas. I turned around at trail marker 12, turned back by the deep snow.

I continued further along the campground road to the Amphitheater parking area and saw a few more deer tracks on the groomed surface. The Amphitheater area provides an elevated view of the campground area.

In the winter season of 2011, I had made it to trail marker 23, which discusses the geology of the area, including the Point Lookout sandstone and the underlying Mancos shale. Most of the trail markers on the Knife Edge Trail discuss the botany of the area. The trees easy to see in winter are the Pinon Pines and Utah Junipers, the leafless Gambel Oaks and the tall Douglas Firs. My snowshoe hike was on a 32 F degree mid February day and I hiked about 2.5 miles in 1:50 hours.

Meadow Bliss Trail on Snowshoes

The Meadow Bliss Trail is a new winter sports loop trail in the Morefield Campground area of Mesa Verde National Park in southwest Colorado. The trailhead for winter sports is the parking area for the Morefield Campground stores. The beginning of the Meadow Bliss Loop is near the trailhead for the Prater Ridge Trail. It is a 10 or 15 minute walk on the Campground Loop trails to get to the Meadow Bliss Loop.

During the 2012 winter season, Mesa Verde is trying to promote winter visiting by grooming the snow in several road areas for winter sports. In early February, the 2012 season hasn’t so far been a heavy snow year but in the Morefield area the depth is up to the bench level of the picnic tables. The day I hiked was one day after about 3 inches of new snow covered the existing groomed surface.
 

The Meadow Bliss Loop is listed as 2.7 miles and heads south from the Prater Ridge Trailhead along the east facing flank of Prater Ridge. It is a lasso type loop with something of a figure eight formation. I stayed to the right at the loop junction. There was new snow on the trail and the route was easier to see staying to the right.

The Meadow Bliss Loop is actually a trail rather than a road like the Campground loops. It passes though groves of Gamble Oak with views of the cliffs of Prater Ridge. I saw many tracks of what I thought were coyotes.

The far end of the western part of the loop passes close to the main road tunnel. In this area there are a few tall Ponderosa Pines. There aren’t many of these pines visible in Mesa Verde. Mostly we see the Pinon Pines and Douglas Firs.

There is a short segment of trail very close to the main park road, and then the route turns north back toward the trailhead. There is a point where the figure eight comes close together and I cut across, leaving off the more eastern part of the figure eight.

This east segment turns south again and makes another pass close to the main park road. It was difficult to see the east part of the trail in this area and I was ready to return to the trailhead. When I hiked, I think the snow depth was relatively thin in the east segment that I skipped.
 

My total hike took 1:50 hours. I didn’t hike the complete 2.7 mile loop, but probably made up the difference by starting at the main trailhead. It was 24 F degrees at my 9:30 AM start and about 34 F at 11:20 AM.

Mesa Verde Winter Ecology Hike

In 2011 and 2012, Mesa Verde National Park in southwest Colorado is encouraging winter visitors by grooming the snow in some areas for snowshoe hiking and cross country skiing. A new guided hike was offered on January 28, 2012 on Winter Ecology at Mesa Verde.

 This hike was offered in the Morefield Campground area where the campground loops are part of the groomed area. The groomed campground loops also provide access to the three Morefield campground trails. Another groomed section is named the Meadow Bliss Trail. The Meadow Bliss Trail is a new route that hasn’t been identified on the park maps before now.

There was no charge for this guided hike and during January and February 2012 admission to the park is free to encourage more public use. The trailhead for winter hiking is near the Morefield Campground stores and gas station.

The first hour of the three hour program was an introduction to tracks and tracking. Tracks by themselves can be difficult to identify but the stride and straddle, or length and width, can give a clue to the size of the animal. A process of elimination led the group to conclude that these tracks might be a coyote. This hike was led by two Mesa Verde Wildlife Management rangers and one of the Interpretive Rangers, so there was a wealth of expertise.

Further on, another similar looking set of tracks was thought to be Bobcat. Bobcat tracks tend to be circular while Coyote are more oval shaped.  Bobcats and Mountain Lions are both at Mesa Verde but aren’t sighted very often. Tracks might be the typical hikers best opportunity to see a sign of them.
 

Part of winter ecology includes the effect of subtle differences in solar radiation. In the Morefield campground area, the differences in the geology and vegetation of north and south facing slopes are visible. The south facing slopes have Pinon Pine and Juniper forest while the cooler north facing slopes have some Douglas Firs. The south facing slopes are also more jumbled in appearance due to the daily effects of freeze and thaw.

 Another factor in track identification is the Gait Pattern. Common gaits include walk, trot, gallop, and jump. Gait patterns include diagonal walking like the coyote and bobcat, and bounders like rabbits and squirrels. Mice are an example of gallopers.

The bounder tracks usually have the rear feet tracks in front of the front feet, as the animal moves its rear feet forward for the next leap. Tree dwellers will show both pair of feet parallel while ground dwellers will have one foot more forward.

Toward the end of the hike, there was a demonstration of the use of motion activated cameras to monitor wildlife in a non-invasive way. This unit was capable of day and night images. There was a discussion of how this type of camera shed some light on the interaction of the elk and the feral horses at Mesa Verde. Images were captured that showed how the horses were aggressive toward the elk and drove them away from one of the water sources.

Part of the hike introduction included a demonstration of how casts of tracks are made. At the end of the hike we looked at a sample cast of a deer track. I had noticed that we didn’t see any deer tracks during the hike even though deer are common in Mesa Verde during the warmer parts of the year. The explanation is that the deer prefer the less snowy lower elevation areas and can easily move down during the winter.

The last demonstration was how plants protect themselves. Samples of Rabbitbrush, Sagebrush, Pinon Pine and Douglas Fir were placed in a zip lock bag and made available for the group to sample the scents. The strong scents indicated the presence of compounds that deter animals from browsing on them.

The total program lasted 3:00 hours. It was about 25 F degrees at the 9:00 AM start and about 35 F degrees at the 12:00 PM finish. This hike was advertised as limited to 20 hikers. Snowshoes were available to borrow for those who didn’t have their own.

T Shaped Doors at Spruce Tree House

During the winter season at Mesa Verde National Park, Spruce Tree House is the only large alcove ruins site that can be visited. There are three free ranger guided tours per day leaving from the Chapin Mesa Museum at 10:00 AM, 1:00 PM and 3:30 PM.

One of the detail features of Spruce Tree House is the many T shaped doorways that are easily visible. T shaped doorways are particular and symbolic of the American southwest. They are thought to have first appeared at Chaco Canyon, New Mexico around 1020 AD. The T shapes appear later at Aztec Ruins in Aztec New Mexico and then in the Mesa Verde area.

The left side plaza area behind the two reconstructed kivas has several T shapes visible including a few that appear to have been bricked in afterwards.

There is debate as to whether the T shapes have a practical function or are they symbolic. The wider top might provide a wider space for carrying material inside and places to place your hands if you want to vault into the room. The narrow bottom might help conserve heat.

Some have noticed that the T doorways are only present for habitation rooms and not for storage rooms. This would make the living rooms easier to spot from a distance. Most of the Spruce Tree House T shapes appear to be symmetrical, but this one has uneven shoulders and looks like a larger opening was bricked in later.

Another site in the Mesa Verde area with easy to visit T shaped doors is the Escalante Pueblo at the Anasazi Heritage Center in Dolores, Colorado. This site is thought to have been built originally in 1129 AD, making it older than Spruce Tree House where construction is thought to have occurred from 1200 to 1276 AD. In this case the T shapes are lined up and lead from one room to the next and are not just on the exterior of the structure. Inside the Anasazi Center Museum there is a mug with a T shaped handle, giving support to the idea that the T shape is symbolic of something.

It looks like there are also places at Spruce Tree House where one T shaped door leads to another interior T shaped door. The winter tour of Spruce Tree House takes about 1:00 hour. On my mid December visit there were only two hikers on the 10:00 AM tour, a much better experience than during the busy summer season.

Mesa Verde Black on White Pottery

Hikers in the more remote areas of the Four Corners will frequently come across pottery shards near the ruins sites. Not many shards are visible at Mesa Verde, but the Chapin Mesa Museum has a good display of several styles including the Mesa Verde Black on white style.

The Anasazi Heritage Center in Dolores, Colorado has some textbook style explanations of different pottery styles and list more types of Black on White than the Mesa Verde Black on White. The definition of the Mesa Verde type given there says more common after 1200 AD. It has heavier designs with more black space, placed either in bands or in all-over patterns divided in halves, thirds, or quarters. Bowls are usually decorated on both surfaces.

The McElmo Black on White style is more common between 1150-1200 AD and often shows bands of triangles, checkerboards, steps, and hatched areas. Bowls were usually painted on the inside surface only.

The Chapin Mesa Museum doesn’t mention the different styles of Black on White but emphasizes the pottery forms. The description for this bowl says it has a ticked rim, a wide design band framed with thick and thin lines.

This water jar has a symmetrical geometric design with narrow spaced hatching. The water jars are also called Ollas. They may have an indentation on the underside to make it comfortable to carry on your head.

This example is labeled as a Kiva Jar as they have been mostly found in kivas. The top is shaped to accept a lid. This kiva jar is considered to be the finest piece in the Mesa Verde collection. The trail guide for the Nordenskiold Ruin No. 16 Trail on Wetherill Mesa says that this jar was found there during the excavations of Jesse Nusbaum in 1928-1929. It has been on display here at the Chapin Mesa Museum since the 1950s.

A miniature of this same jar also seems to appear in the diorama that depicts alcove life after 1200 AD. The dioramas are part of the CCC work of the depression era 1930s. It becomes obvious with experience at Mesa Verde that the dioramas are based on actual locations in the park. The scene that contains the famous pottery example is based on the Spruce Tree House that is right outside the museum.

Sun Point Pueblo on the Mesa Top Tour

The Sun Point Pueblo is the sixth stop on the Mesa Top Pithouse to Pueblo Tour at Mesa Verde National Park in southwest Colorado. This area of Chapin Mesa is part of the park that is kept open all winter. The road and short trails to the Ancestral Pueblo ruins sites are kept clear of snow and provide a hard surface for walking when other trails are muddy or snow covered.

I started my hike at the parking area for the third stop Square Tower House and visited the other sites toward the Sun Point View Point area. The sequence of ruins sites on the Mesa Top Loop traces the history of building styles in the Mesa Verde area from 600 to 1300 AD.

 In the winter season, there isn’t much traffic and this is a pleasant walk with thick Pinon Pine and Juniper forest on both sides of the road. The Sun Point Pueblo is partly sheltered in an open sided building.

The key feature of the Sun Point Pueblo is the Tower and Kiva combination in the center of the village. Surrounding the Tower and Kiva are the outlines of 15 rooms. The interpretive sign in the shelter has a diagram showing the entire site.

The Tower and Kiva combination is one of several that can be viewed at Mesa Verde. Cedar Tree Tower and Far View Tower, also on Chapin Mesa are similar. There is also an example on the Badger House Trail on Wetherill Mesa.

Sun Point Pueblo is missing much of its material and it is thought that some of it might have been moved to build the many alcove structures that are visible at the nearby Sun Point overlook. The Sun Point Pueblo is thought to have been occupied for only a short period of time, during the transition to the alcove sites

It is easy to overlook the room block outlines that are on both sides of the shelter building. It is thought that there may have been as many as 30 rooms here with a population of about 50.

On the way off the Mesa Top Loop I saw a coyote also strolling along the road. My hike on the Mesa Top Loop from stops 3 to 7 was on a sunny 40 F degree mid November day. There were patches of snow in shady spots in the forest. My hike took 1:30 hours for about 2 miles.